Legendary New Orleans restaurant reviewer Richard Collin, who died back in January, 2010, is justly known in some quarters as the "Paul Finebaum of Restaurant Critics". His masterpiece is the 1973 revised edition of his reviews of many of the Crescent City's finest (and not so finest) dining establishments. The book, "The New Orleans Underground Gourmet" has since become a classic. Here are a few of the more memorable negative reviews.
1. Bourbon-Orleans Ramada: Maurice's, 717 Orleans St.
The beef stroganoff tastes as if it came out of a can; the menu is pretentious and expensive and the kitchen inept.
2. Napoleon Restaurant, 1519 Veterans Blvd., Metairie
What a melange! The menu is pseudo-French with parenthetical notes after specialties saying "Try me." The enormous sign outside the restaurant would be
more suitable to a drive-in movie. At first the food was promising here, but
the kitchen is inconsistent and the management lacks taste. On a recent visit
a special treat was the addition of canned fruit cocktail served in the
wineglass with the St.-Emilion ordered for dinner. More fruit cocktail later
turned up on a main-dish plate of gray tough veal. Astonishing!
3. Sheraton-Charles Hotel Dining Room, 211 St. Charles Ave.
The Sheraton does not pretend that its dining room is anything but a
convenience place for hotel guests. Be happy you don't have to taste the
dish that came in second to the "prizewinning" chicken with the mystery goop.
4. Raoul's Restaurant, 4801 Veterans Blvd., Metairie
Raoul's serves consistently terrible food which ranges from stale to inedible
and at times, in an occasional flash of brilliance, mediocre.
5. Augie's Italian Kitchen and Rabito's Poor Boy Restaurant and Bar,
612 St. Charles Ave.
The poor eat poorly. This terrible restaurant in the skid row area serves
the worst red beans and sausage in town daily.
6. Paul Gross Chicken Coop, 1838 Bienville St.
The food here isn't that bad (it's not particularly good either), but it is
impossible to eat anything in what must be the most foul smelling restaurant
in the city.
7. Steer Inn, 6101 Elysian Fields Ave.
The barbecue served here is a figment of the sign painter's imagination and
the milk shakes are almost as bad.
8. Chan's Restaurant, 907 Decatur St. The food is just about inedible and the surroundings are bleak.
9. Mancuso's, 546 Camp St. The signs here ask the far-from-distinguished clientele not to bring lunch from home and to be kind to the waitresses.
10. Star Restaurant, 409 Baronne St.
Four daily 95-cent lunch specials, all flavorless. Floury beef stew and
watery coffee are part of the repertoire.
11. Varieties Stag Bar and Sandwich Shop, 139 Carondolet St.
It is a brave person who embarks through the sandwich entrance leading to the
back of the adjoining bar. The trip is not worth the trouble. The sandwiches
are dispensed from a stand on paper plates with an ice cream scoop of salad.
12. Ben's Pizza, 1443 Commercial Dr., Arabi
Ben is the king of prefab pizza, turning out more of the horrible little things
than anyone else in town with a whole bank of minature heating ovens. Is it
better to eat these pizzas quickly before they become unglued or to let them
cool, put them aside, and pick up a hamburger on the way home?
13. Pete's Spaghetti House, 900 Jefferson Hwy., Jefferson Parish
A strong contender for the worst-food-in-New Orleans award. Steak in a garlic
butter sauce (raw chopped garlic and butter) and spaghetti imprisoned under a heavy red sauce are equally atrocious.
14. Richard's Restaurant, 3944 Chef Menteur Hwy. All of the food has as much character as the watery Northern coffee this
24-hour restaurant advertises so proudly.
15. Carlos Restaurant, 2600 4th St., Harvey
Slices of packaged white bread, margarine, cans of condensed milk on the
table, and a luncheon special that is sold out by 1 P.M. are examples of why
not every restaurant in New Orleans that looks bad is good.
And the piece de resistance:
16. Chateau Le Moyne: The Charles, 303 Dauphine St. Some of the food was promising, but too much was indifferent, and the
restaurant's Keystone Kops waiters, the amateurism in the kitchen, and the
service reached a peak recently when the waiter set himself and the apple pie
flambe (!) on fire.
They sure don't review 'em like that anymore.
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